FRONT INNER NOSE STRUCTURE

Just purchased my new inner nose structure (headlight support bracket) from Wolfsburg West. I should have by the end of the first week of the new year. After this, I will have all the parts to completely build the front section back to good.

Happy New Year All!

Front Nose Clip Repair - Part #2

 I used a plasma cutter to remove the front headlight support bracket.  I guess it was from being lazy or just frustrated with removing the inner valance off of the frame.  I've fabricated a new replacement for the section that I quickly cut out.  For some reason, this still seemed a lot simpler.  This was done on both sides of the van.  I am currently awaiting my order for a new headlight support bracket. I just need to grind it down once a few places are tack-welded to the body.  This piece is required to spot-weld the inner valance to the body, so I must put it back.  I'll show this completed, but I will only continue after I have the replace support bracket in my possession to try it on for size.

 Just making sure that I am going in the correct direction with the fender and pillar from the size perspective. It doesn't completely line up yet because I have not grind-ed down the tack-welds for the side rocker panel that I repaired previously. This is just to check to see if the angle will be right when I hit that step soon.  This should be completed in a few weeks.

Although, the valances does not fit onto the frame, because of metal that still needs to be clear off the two frame post.  I had to try it partly on to make sure the part's location is exactly where I expected it. This is an AutoCraft part, so it is very proper.  Stay tuned.

You can watch this video to get a full status of what I've just discussed:

Nose and A-Pillar replacement

My prep to fix the front noes of the bus.  Here I measured the replacement panel that will repair the crushed bus nose shape.  The panel that I cut is 8 inches (20.32 cm) high. The replacement panel is it a tad bit higher, but I rather grind it up to cover my imperfect cuts that normally run a bit high and low. I used the blue tape as a guide, trying to cut on top of it, or skimming it.  With all the sparks, it is very hard to tell. That is why I made sure that I under cut the piece. If I made a mistake, the whole replacement would be roughly $600.00 USA with shipping and it would require my retro-fitting the earlier bullet turning signals.

The bottom nose was removed. I tried to input the replacement part and as expected, it is to low to insert.  The main goal of this repair is to replace the A-Pillar below the floor.  I needed access to see what was beneath it all.  The secondary reason was to replace the damaged nose.


Please stay tuned..

Closing Crap up! - Updated

I had to go a little medieval to get the side rocker panel in place, bending the B-pillar closeout plate with my Ford's scissor jack . It worked perfectly. The top lip of the outer rockers had about 1/8 of space that needed to be balanced out.   See the next photo and you'll understand that it was indeed successful.

As you can see, the panel lined up beautifully.  I've added the tack welds to hold the panel in place and I also added a few spot welds to the bottom to keep it in.  I ran out of gas today for my MIG welder.  Picking some up tomorrow and finishing the closing.

Here is the side bead welded across and down. The warpage was minor for such a long piece of metal. I had to jump around the line so that one part of the metal did not become too hot at anytime.  Just need to grind down the slug and prep area for priming.

Major Progress

 It's been a long time. A lot of my slow speed comes from mistakes and the lack of confidence.  I believe, once I finish this area, things will speed up, as I am already feeling my confidence building up nicely. The way in which I tackle each problem is only creating a stronger Marquis at the end of each session.

I finally got the B-Pillar closed up and sealed perfectly.  I ended up switching from the AutoCraft parts to a Funky Green panel pillar.  This pillar reaches farther up and it also closes the gap perfectly.

Once the  B-Pillar closed up,  I spot welded  the inner rockers to the cross connects (top and bottom hats). In some cases, I had to use a MIG welder to spot weld behind the middle pillars. For the ones that were reachable, this spot welder was the fastest and cleanest method possible.

This is a photo that shows how I tried to access in the middle of the beam with the spot welder.  In most cases, I didn't work well.  I was tired of holding the welder since it is very heavy.

The inner rocker and the pillar and the pillar closeout plate looks solid. I've added some weldable primer to resist against rust that could form when closing the gap and from the welding process overall.

The outer rocker is finally sized up for the final time to make sure it lines up for welding. I need to purchase a few more magnets to make sure all areas along the panel mates the original across the van in a leveled way.

I will post pictures when I am finished with the welding of the side.

Metal Prep - Video Part 1

Here is the metal prep for my damage front nose cone (panel). The process takes 5-6 weeks to remove rust.  So, this is Part #1

The Front Nose - Damage

(p1)

(p2)

 I purchased a new 8 inch nose replacement panel to repair the center nose that normally gets smashed in at some point by some driver poor at parking. This is the Green Stuff.  It comes with a weld-thru green primer to prevent corrosion.

This is a very used front nose panel that I purchased online (p2). The unit was advertised to be used as wall-art, Go figure!  Who in the hell would use a split bus nose as wall-art?

Anyway, I had other intentions for it. I needed the section to the left of the light bucket and to the right of the bucket (p5).  The area to the right of the bucket, on my current nose was damaged (as seen in p1). The complexity of the curve didn't allow for me to straighten it out by a stud hammer. So, rather than using filler like how it was originally setup, I'll cut it out and replace it with the downer.

(p3)

I had to remove the rusty bottom, it bothered me greatly, even though, it was not my area of interest. By blocking out the areas that I want to protect with a marker, I let the cutting begin. Please see my cutting videos at the end of of this section.

(p5)

(p4)

Photos p4 and p5 shows the downer areas sized up to the location in which they will be graphed. I will attempt to repair the left-side of the light bucket with a hammer and dolly before cutting it and replacing the sheet metal.

Please see videos on the next page ->

Nose Clip Repair Plan

I have it traced out where I am going to remove the damaged area.  Before, this was filled in with filler and I tried pulling it out with a stud hammer. Because the area has a rather complex cure, the metal is not very malleable. None of the stud hammering pulled any part of it out. I will cut this part out and patch in a replacement.

I found this rather crude organ downer online. It was cheap, because it is pretty rusty, but the part I need is OK. I wish under the eye wasn't so jacked up as I would have liked to pull the who area, but once I have the cut open, I'll be able to work on the other part with a hammer and dolly.  I'll also have to pull out a small 5"x5" patch on the passenger's side.  It is not shown in the above picture, but there is a small rust hole there.

 I've also found online a nose clip that I can replace the smashed up nose area of the bus. This will handle the bang in the front.  This project will begin when I close up the side. I'll start cleaning up the downer part when I have a moment before, As I want to reduce the big elements in my garage. So I am going to do most of the cutting this weekend.

The inner rockers are permanently welded in. I had to remove them and straighten back out the metal, as I welded it too forward the first time. I was going to order a new one, but I thought it would be a better exercise if I fixed what I destroyed to help keep my cost down and save time waiting for the new part to come in.  Also, I've welded in the b-pillar post cover that I also had to re-work.  Hey!  I'm learning the hard way, but it is learning indeed.   I still have a question posted on a forum on how to handle the tab down on the bottom left.I believe it has to be bent over and weld closed. If I don't get a response, I'll take a look at the other side

Here is the outer rocker mating up to the B-pillar post that I fabricated. I'll have to grind down some of the arch, as it doesn't allow for my tack-weld holes to line up.  These wholes were made with a flange tool. The reverse side allows you to punch holes into sheet metal like paper. It works with a compressor. Please see the photo at the very end.

Along the top side panel, I'll have to grind down some of the ridges that doesn't allow the outer rocker to mate evenly to the bottom. This doesn't allow the weld holes punched in the bottom to mate to the inner rocker.  This will be fixed on my next visit to the garage.

Here is how the side rocker panel looks when mated up. As you can see, this will look pretty good once welded in. This will start next weekend.  I got an immunization shot on Saturday that made me feel pretty sick, so I had to stop.

Fixing the front B pillar post

 After trying to weld the beotch to non-weldable primer, I finally got it straightened out. This piece was fabricated in-house, as no suppler carries the B pillar cover.

 Not the best looking welds in the world but they are holding after I removed the primer and tack welded the plate in.  I've wire brushed the welds and the next photo will show it in primer.

Next I'll just have to grind down the welds so that I can close up the side rocker panel. I primed it up so it doesn't rust over the week, until my next time in the show next weekend. This is weldable primer, so that any touch ups can just be cleaned and welded.

Labor Day Week-end with the Bus.

I've partially installed the new jack port under the drivers'side rear.  This is weld-thru primer, so that it would not rust while I am tackling other small jobs. I am sort of running low on argon/CO2.

 This is the inner wheel well that I am patching in. The original one was rusted and it is easier to replace complete, rather than trying to cut out a lot of small little patch sections. The piece is tacked in, secured and ready for full welding on the next weekend.

 Here is the side view of the work to be done.

 Again, making sure the inner rocker fits well before I progress to the next stage.  I'll just need to remove the rust under the cargo floor and pop in some spot weld holes on the top of the inner rockers.

 I have the replacement (driver's side) B-pillar welded in on the driver's side. So far, this all looks good.  I'm looking for a way to deal with the A-Pillar before I work on the dog legs.

Well & Rocker configuration check

Part of the wheel well was removed from the rear driver's side.  I had to also cleaned up the floor pan line that mates up to the replacement rocker panel.

I tack welded the replacement panel into place for sizing. I needed to run the inner rocker to make sure it would line up when I am ready to weld both of these pieces into their respective places.



Here is a picture of the rocker partly in place.  I had to remove the jack port, as it bent to the left and causing the rocker not to be able to sit plush against the mounts.   I removed the jack port which you'll see in a photo below (see photo below).  Also, I'm starting to clean up the lip in which the rocker will mount to the underside of the cargo floor.   But, before all of this, I need to bend the cargo floor straight as there are a few dips in the floor that would show up after painting and look bad.  I'll post he device that I am building to help with that.

Here is a complete side view of the repair work in progress.

This is the undercarriage. As you can see, it is lightly rusted. I am going to paint this rust with POR-15, which bonds to run and makes it harder than the original metal (hammer resistant). Since it seals and encapsulates, it should never rust again. Underneath will look very luxurious.  I'll cross that bridge when I get there.

Inner rocker removal - Update 7/31

Here I am removing the driver's side rocker from the Panel van.  As you can see below, the picture with the weld slug on the lip (B), I was trying to keep the original rocker.  I patched in some of the rust spot, but a replacement rocker from AutoCraft was pretty affordable and near original, I decided to replace it so that rust wouldn't catch me later.

A: Spot welds

To remove the inner rocker, I cut off the bottom lip to be able to remove the spot welds that held it to the cargo floor.  The angle is pretty hard since it is easier to be perpendicular to the welds when drilling. I basically found all the spot welds by separating the metal in the places that didn't have spot welds and bending them downwards.

B: Rocker first cutout

I was not think about saving the rocker since I tried to weld in some of the lips in certain spots because it was rusted or cut when I removed the panel area that needed repair. The hardest part is removing this from the spot welds in the top and bottom hats that run horizontally to support the cargo floor.

C: Removed Rocker

This is the rockers completely removed.  I have a replacement that I will weld in after I deal with some of the surface rust on the hats.  I'm still waiting to buy my compressor, as this electrical cut-off wheel stops every 10 seconds due to the fear of overheating.

As you can see, I cut part of the wheel well, which I am planning to replace as well.

D: Scrap metal

Here is the metal that I cutoff. It doesn't look pretty. Removing this stuff is a mixture of cutting, pulling and twisting.  Because the area is so low, one tends to become impatient and just want to cut the van in half.  I do have a plasma cutter, but it was in my storage place.  I have it in my possession now, but once I get my compressor, this would be easier as well. It needs high PSI of air to run the plasma cutter.

Here is an update of the new inner rocker test fit. I realized that I might have to remove part of the D pillar to get the rocker to fit under.  I will try to pull it back or hammer it in later after I clean up some of

the rust.

I removed half of the wheel well in preparations for a replacement panel that I have. The original one was too rusty and also, over cut when I removed the side panel.  I want to start off clean keeping the bus from rusting again after painting.  I only have a small lip to remove on the inside. Once that is done, I will strip down the paint and primer and spot weld the new one into place.

Here is a view from another angle, where shows the small lip inside that needs to be removed on my next visit.